When so much discussion of Williamsburg’s shifting sands is superficial (i.e., gentrifiers criticizing newer gentrifiers), the closing of a superior eatery that served the old and new alike is sobering. After nine years in business, Brick Oven Gallery’s rent suddenly doubled; the neighborhood’s great—if unsung—culinary treasure served its last pizza on June 2. Built around a century-old brick oven, BOG served exquisitely thin-crust pies that easily rivaled Grimaldi’s, even if the kitchen never enjoyed the same fanfare or lines. On its relatively sleepy stretch of Havemeyer, the unassuming, cozy, local spirit was far removed from Bedford’s newer excesses abounding three blocks west and a world away.
While the oven’s embers have gone cold, a phoenix may rise from its ashes: Owner Kenny Perroni is set to open a new restaurant a few blocks north any day now. Kenny’s Trattoria promises contemporary Italian food, sadly sans superior pie.
RIP: Brick Oven Gallery, 33 Havemeyer.
Here’s hoping: Kenny’s Trattoria, 6 Withers St.