Tweens In Toques?

As you know, dear reader, we humbly feel that Brooklyn is home to the best eats on earth. And it’s famously a great place to raise wee ones.

One of the borough’s most celebrated cookbook authors combines those two trends in a new title that’s enough to make us decide to reproduce. Kids Cook 1-2-3: Recipes for Young Chefs Using Only 3 Ingredients (Bloomsbury) brings three-time James Beard Cookbook Award–winner Rozanne Gold’s genius culinary formula of guess-how-many items to the borough’s tweens, ensuring this magazine will have great food minds to interview for a generation to come.

Thinking peanut butter on celery sticks and applesauce studded with red hots? Think again. Gold was first chef at Gracie Mansion by age 23, and evidently feels such culinary precociousness is nothing special. Though the illustrations show almond-eyed 11-year-olds and suggest a grown-up “kitchen buddy” should help with the blender, cooking terms include “reduce” and “zest,” and recipes climb confidently into such grown-up terrain as candied bacon, roast chicken, homemade butter, and pineapple-glazed salmon steaks. Gold not only offers three variations for tuna salad, but even advises young readers that the empty can is handy for frying perfect eggs and cutting shortcakes. Cheers to Gold for a book so deliciously smart we plan to cook from it ourselves. As she tells her protégés, these dishes are so good, “your mom might ask you for the recipe.”

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